CASEMENT WINDOWS
Finishing
All windows need to be finished within 30 days of installation. Primed products need a minimum
of two coats of exterior-grade paint. All interior surfaces need a minimum of two coats of paint,
varnish, or polyurethane. Do Not Paint The Weather Stripping! The
paint and/or varnish will have to be periodically maintained depending on the manufacturer's
recommendations and environmental conditions. Clad products do not require any additional exterior
finishing, but should be cleaned periodically to remove any airborne pollutants and contaminants.
Following these guidelines will help ensure your investment is properly protected.
Cleaning
Open the window to its full open position. This will enable you to reach both surfaces from the interior
of the home.
Lubrication
The hardware will require occasional lubrication. A light coating of silicone or similar lubricant
on the track and pivot points applied annually will ensure free and easy operation. Avoid using
petroleum-based lubricants as they stay wet and will attract more dirt. Areas with harsh environments
(coastal or high levels of dust, dirt or sand) will need cleaning and lubrication more often.
DOUBLE HUNG WINDOWS
Finishing
In addition to the information in the casement section, when applying the finish to the edges of
the sash that contact the track, be sure to not apply it too thickly. It could affect the operation
and the thermal performance.
Cleaning
The sash can be tilted in for cleaning. To tilt, raise the bottom sash about four to five inches.
With your right hand, grasp the top of the bottom sash and gently pull inward. While your right
hand is applying pressure, compress the left side track with your left hand until the groove in the
edge of the sash clears the ridge on the track. While maintaining the gentle inward pressure, compress
the right side track as described above. When both sides have cleared the ridge on the track, you may
rotate the top of the sash down. The top sash is tilted in the same manner.
SLIDING DOORS
Finishing
Refer to the casement section.
Lubrication
It is sometimes helpful to apply a light coating of spray silicone to the interior vinyl leaf weather
strip. This will help reduce the friction between the panel and the weather strip. Note: make sure the
silicone is for wood and plastics and is compatible with the finish applied to your door.
Adjustment
To level the sliding panel in the opening, open the panel slightly until there is a small gap between
the edge of the door and the edge of the frame. Remove the plugs from the bottom of the panel. Insert
a straight-tip screwdriver in the hole and adjust the rollers until the size of the gap is the same
from top to bottom. The sliding screen is adjusted in a similar manner.
Important
If you haven't already done so, be sure to ask your Vetter Dealer/Distributor about the premium screen
for the ultimate in easy operation, and the solid brass handle set for that look of distinction and
substantial feel that only solid brass can provide. Both are optional accessories that can be retrofit
at any time.
HINGED (SWING) DOORS
Finishing
Start with the information in the casement section. Additionally, the natural swing door will require
two coats of primer before the top coat is applied. The natural swing door may also be stained and
varnished, provided an exterior-grade varnish or polyurethane is used. Note: stains used for siding,
whether solid color or semi-transparent, are not suitable for millwork products. They do not provide
an adequate seal against moisture penetration and may lead to weather checking or delamination.
Lubrication
Occasionally apply a small amount of lubricant to the hinges. Doors equipped with the optional LeLock
require periodic lubrication of the lock mechanism. There are two small access holes on the edge of
the door marked "oil": Spray small amounts of lubricant into both holes.
ROLLING WINDOWS
Finishing
In addition to the information in the casement section, when applying the finish to the edges of the
sash that contact the track, be sure not to apply it too thickly. It could affect the operation and
the thermal performance.
Cleaning
The sash on the gliding window lifts out from the interior for cleaning. To remove, slide the sash to
the center of the opening, grasp both sides of the sash and lift. This will compress the top track.
When the bottom of the sash has cleared the bottom track, swing the bottom of the sash in and remove.
Lubrication
We recommend you lubricate the top and bottom tracks to enhance the operation of the window. A spray
silicone suitable for wood and plastics works well. Waxing the tracks with car wax will also work. Do
not use petroleum-based lubricants. They attract dirt and will actually hinder operation.
WHERE DOES CONDENSATION COME FROM?
Today's energy-efficient homes are built more airtight than ever. But in addition
to sealing in warmth and air conditioning, they also tend to hold in too much
moisture-laden air.
If your home contains excessive moisture and it's cold outside, the first place
you'll see it is on your windows. You may think this means there's a problem with
your windows, but it doesn't. In fact, the vast majority of window condensation
problems are not the result of faulty windows. The windows are just indicating that
your home needs added ventilation to lower the amount of moisture in the air.
CAN CONDENSATION DAMAGE YOUR WINDOWS?
Occasional beads of moisture on the glass of your windows usually isn't a problem.
For example, it's likely your bathroom mirror and windows will steam up after a hot
shower. Or your kitchen window may fog up when you're boiling food on the stove. But
in both these cases, the moisture clears in a matter of minutes.
However, if your windows are "sweating" at other times - or stay that way for any
length of time - you probably do have a problem.
Although the glass itself may not be affected, dripping condensation and excess
moisture can not only damage your windows but potentially your entire home.
Wood frames and sash can warp and become difficult to operate
Paint can peel and other finishes become mottled or stained
Insulation can become damp, damaging ceilings and walls
Exterior siding and finishes can become blistered and warped
Interior surfaces can become breeding grounds for mold and mildew
This is why it's so important to take steps to control and eliminate excess moisture.
WHERE DOES ALL THE MOISTURE COME FROM?
In a word, everywhere.
In the kitchen, moisture is generated by cooking food, using the sink, running the dishwasher
In the bathroom, from showers, hot tubs and spas
Washers and indoor-vented dryers contribute as well
Basements and crawl spaces can channel dampness from the ground into your home
Even breathing and perspiration add moisture to indoor air
Collectively, a family of four can easily generate up to 18 gallons of water a week
in the form of humidity inside your home.
HOW CAN YOU GET RID OF EXCESSIVE MOISTURE?
To lower your home's humidity levels, you need to increase ventilation and decrease
the sources of moisture.
Make sure you have good ventilation in high-humidity areas: bathrooms, the kitchen, laundry
areas and in the basement
If you already have adequate exhaust fans and dehumidifiers in these areas, try running them
for longer periods of time
Take shorter showers and install water-restricting faucets - you'll lower the humidity and your
energy bills as well
Cook a little differently. Keep pots and pans covered to hold moisture in. Use your microwave
instead of boiling on the stove. Slow-cooking crock pots are energy-efficient and moisture-efficient,
too.
Check and reroute drainage away from your home, to minimize the moisture in and around your
basement and foundation
hOW MUCH HUMIDITY IS THE RIGHT AMOUNT?
You've probably heard that your home will feel warmer in winter if the humidity is higher.
That's true, and why many people use humidifiers to counteract dry, static-filled air during
the heating season.
In older homes, excess moisture usually isn't a problem because the structure "breathes" through
unsealed cracks and crannies in the construction, creating a regular exchange of outdoor and indoor
air. That's why it is often a struggle to keep enough moisture inside older homes.
But with today's modern construction techniques, homes are much tighter and energy-efficient.
As a result, newer homes don't usually need a way to add moisture - they're more likely to have
trouble getting rid of it.
So how much humidity is enough to keep us comfortable without dampening our surroundings? Refer to
the following chart for temperature and humidity levels that are generally considered comfortable.
Not sure what the humidity is inside your home? Ask a HVAC (heating, ventilating and air conditioning)
contractor to measure it for you.
SUGGESTED HUMIDITY LEVELS FOR MAXIMUM INDOOR COMFORT*
Indoor
Air Temp. |
Outdoor
Air Temp. |
Recommended
Maximum Humidity |
| 70ºF |
Below -20ºF |
15% |
| 70ºF |
-20ºF to -10ºF |
20% |
| 70ºF |
-10ºF to 0ºF |
25% |
| 70ºF |
0ºF to 10ºF |
30% |
| 70ºF |
10ºF to 20ºF |
35% |
| 70ºF |
20ºF to 40ºF |
40% |
* Source: University of Minnesota Engineering Experiment Station
WHAT ELSE CAN YOU DO TO LOWER EXCESSIVE INDOOR MOISTURE LEVELS?
The basic principle of reducing window condensation is simple. When there's too much condensation
on your windows it means the humidity is too high in your home for the current condition outside.
Here are some additional actions that may help reduce excessive humidity levels:
Open your windows occasionally to vent excess moisture
If the condensation is on the storm window, open it periodically to vent excess moisture
Open drapes and blinds to allow warm house air to circulate against the window
Turn off your furnace humidifier or other home humidifiers
Make sure dehumidifiers are working properly and well drained
Be sure that louvers in the attic or basement crawl space are open and are of adequate size
Run ventilating fans in the kitchen and bathrooms longer and more often
Air out your house by opening a door or window for a few minutes after the bathroom, kitchen
or laundry has steamed up
If moisture problems still persist, talk to a HVAC professional or your gas or electric company.
They may have additional suggestions for reducing humidity, including venting gas-burning heaters
and appliances, adding ventilation fans or getting an outside air intake for your furnace.
IS THERE ANY CONDENSATION THAT'S TEMPORARY?
There are two causes of temporary window condensation, and they normally disappear after a few weeks.
First, there is moisture that comes from new construction or remodeling. There's moisture in new wood,
plaster and other building materials. When the heating season starts, this moisture gradually flows
into the air of the home. After a few weeks, or at the most, a season of heating, this moisture will
disappear.
Second, this same type of moisture can accumulate in a milder form at the beginning of each heating
season. During the summer, your house absorbs moisture. After the first few weeks of heating, your
home will "dry out" and you'll have less trouble with window condensation.
WHAT IF THERE'S CONDENSATION BETWEEN THE PIECES OF GLASS IN AN INSULATING WINDOW?
As building experts often point out, windows should not be blamed for condensation. They merely are
an indicator of too much moisture in the air.
In the unlikely event you see condensation between the panes of glass in an insulating window, contact
the window contractor or dealer who sold you the windows. Moisture between the glass means that the seal
on your window has failed. It's a rare occurrence, but one that is usually covered for 10 to 20 years
under the manufacturer's limited warranty.
Some of the information above was derived from the following sources:
Moisture and Home Energy Conservation, U.S. Department of Energy-DOE/CE/15095-4
Washington Energy Extension Service Technote - Moisture Problems and Multiple Glazing - TN1003
University of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign - Small Homes Council - Building Research Council. Council
Notes Moisture Condensation - F6.2 Volume 1 Number 1
Better Business Bureau of Philadelphia Tel-Tips (412) 456-2720 Tape 51421 Condensation on Windows
WHAT KIND OF WARRANTY COVERAGE APPLIES TO VETTER WINDOWS AND PATIO DOORS?
All Vetter products are covered by the Vetter Craftsmanship Limited Warranty
It covers insulated glass seal failure, aluminum cladding, and wood and vinyl materials.
The length of coverage varies depending on the product line.
See WARRANTY for complete details, or contact your Vetter dealer/distributor.
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